School, Fashion Design, and Fashion Production

 (Cross-Posted from my Tumblr account)

Hello people of the internet! I'm going to share a bit of insight with what I've been learning at school this semester

These are illustrations and drawings I have drawn up, no AI was used. The colored drawing (Left) was done using alcohol markers, Gelly Roller pens, and pencil crayons. The other was done using a photo and illustration program  

  

  

 

 The one on the left shows the layers, the texture, color, if there's sparkle or gold metallic something to it, and the other (Right) is the "technical drawing" to provide the manufacturing company. The "tech pack" or "technical package will add information with details on where the stitching will be, the design elements, and then coupled with a "Spec Sheet" with details of what kind of thread, what color matching the fabric has to be, fiber content, assembly, label printing instructions, and close up detail for any embroidery that needs to be done, and info for the pattern makers for fit  

As a point in reference in cost, in Canadian dollars, if I use all natural fiber for ONLY the bolero-cape part, after doing the math, the approximate retail price of just that one piece, is close to $1500 if I was to sell a single copy of this garment....only one on the market

So, you have to wonder... how are clothes designed and sold so cheap, coming from places like China, or sold on Amazon, Temu, Shien, etc In my tech pack, I gave the "labour" costs to make this, at 17$/hour. That is above minimum wage currently in Ontario (Canada)

All the fabric is natural fiber (wool, and cotton sateen). The only thing that's synthetic, is the embroidery, and maybe the interfacing for the cuffs. And as some of you may know, natural fiber gets expensive. Especially wool, which you have to go hunting fabrics for, which can run up to 40-50$ per meter (about 48$/yard for the Americans for conversion)

So, lets say this design gets stolen (which, because its the internet which is most likely to happen), they'll make it out of cheap synthetic fiber (probably polyester), glue or print everything on without top stitching (more chemicals), no embroidery so that'll be printed on (even more paint print chemicals), and likely give their workers maybe 1$/hr to make it, at 5 hours tops (forced labour, slave labour, child labour, or underpaying sewists) to make from start to finish. It will also likely be poorly fitted because of the use of AI that's going to pump out the design (environmental impact from data centers), it won't be fitted on a real human (more AI environmental impact) for photos before sending it off to be produced and posted online, turning this expensive design into a cheap knock-off that will likely be sold by the hundreds of thousands for cheap...maybe about 40$ max, for Halloween.

This will also be the sort of thing people only wear once, throw it out, and it winds up back on the shores of the country that made it (most likely somewhere like Bangladesh, which is home to the lowest paid garment workers in the world, last I heard on social media), causing more pollution, choking off wildlife, and causing locals of wherever they get dumped, to deal with the garbage in their own backyard. What I want to happen with my designs, and what will happen are likely two different things. But I just wanted to bring this information to light.

You may ask yourself "why are you taking this class then?". Well, I want to design clothes for myself, that will be closer to timeless or classic pieces, that are made of natural fiber, that will last as long as possible, with a better chance of biodegradability, wearability (clothes I will want to reach for frequently), mixing and matching, as well as durability during the lifetime of the garment.

I'm also getting older, my body is changing, and menopause is a rough thing to deal with, especially when a hot flash hits, and you need that breathability of natural fiber garments. Especially when it's close to the body to absorb and wick away sweat.

I very much doubt I'll go into production for any of my designs, as I have no overhead (broke college student stereotype), but I want to keep my environmental impact small where I can, that I know I can manage.

Just a little peek behind the curtain of fashion design And now, just a little hand woven project that I'm doing a video for, as a bit of a palate cleanser.

School, future plans, long term goals, and donations

 This is a loooong post, but there's important updates and school stuff for transparency of what I've been working towards. 

 Let's just call it a few long term goals, and a call out for some help. I'm not working at this time. That's right, I don't have a job. 

 This is so I can focus on school, to get the experience I need, to start looking into working for garment repair places, or possibly even having the piece of paper I need from school, to teach mending, sewing and repair. How anyone can do all the full time courses and manage to find time to hand all their stuff in with a full day of classes, along with all the homework, which takes a lot of work, is beyond me. 

I've spent DAYS sewing the same hat to finish it for class, or patterning out something by hand to get the best grades possible. For the record, I have a straight A grade average across ALL of my classes I've taken so far. 

 For possible future employers who come across my videos (or this blog), if there's any Toronto (Canada) based businesses that is a sewing shop, repair shop, or crafting studio that is looking for someone who's been home sewing since they were in grade school, that wants someone who can teach sewing basics on their payroll, or someone that is willing to learn tailoring methods through working experience, please send me a message and I will reply! 

My email for my Youtube channel is kiera.oona.crafts@gmail.com

I can also be reached via the following platforms:

 Instagram: @kieraoona

Youtube:  https://www.youtube.com/@kieraoona

Ko-Fi: https://ko-fi.com/kieraoona

Bluesky:  https://bsky.app/profile/kieraoona.bsky.social

 I want to do better by the environment, moving towards a job in the Toronto area (preferably closer to home) that has sustainability in mind, or towards slow fashion or more tailored fashion, so people can make their own clothes, or reach for clothes they will wear more often.... but I also need to keep a roof over my head. 

With that said... The current problem, is all my classes that I planned on taking, and wanted to take as a backup were all cancelled (a little frustrating). 

I have enough funds to keep a roof over my head and pay for classes **for now** without going into debt. However, most sewing places expect that you have experience in the industry, which I don't. 

Everything I have learned is either through personal experience, or through the continuing education courses at George Brown so far.I also have tools and supplies I needed to replace or get repaired. I was able to replace my steam iron with my own money, but I could use some help to recoup the losses....which is where all of you lovely people come in! 

The money will funnel back into my Youtube channel for supplies, music subscriptions for music on my videos, as well as taking more classes if they become available through the college in the spring (April is when the next semester for Con-ed is usually available) 

 For transparency, I'm still looking at taking the following classes that I need to obtain the Fashion Fundamentals Certificate at George Brown College: 

Pattern Drafting 2 (I have supplies for this from the last class)
Introduction to Adobe (prerequisite) (Adobe Creative Cloud subscription needed)
Adobe Illustrator for Fashion (Adobe Creative Cloud subscription needed)
Fashion Illustration and Design (will probably need Copic markers for this)
Draping for Fashion Design (possibly some fabric expenses)

For these classes I still need a laptop to take with me, and that will run Adobe Creative Cloud (another monthly expense)

In the images below, I have the course list, and the classes that I still need or want to take are listed on the image, which is the list provided from the college. Also my Ko-Fi goal posting on my Ko-Fi page.

As for the other courses for more industry experience, I'm hoping the professors will provide me with more information on the following courses through George Brown Fashion Exchange:

Power Sewing
Apparel Fit Technician
 

In the meantime, I'm still working on making more videos while waiting for classes to open back up, working on body blocks that are tailor fit to myself for pattern drafting practice, and passing along the knowledge of what I've learned, in video format, for all of you out there. For anyone who is able to donate, thank you! My Ko-Fi link is https://ko-fi.com/kieraoona

 

 

 

 

 

Community Poll and YouTube channel updates- January 2023

 Hello Denizens of the Internet.  

 

I have a poll up on my YouTube channel and I could use your input.  Please vote on the poll, at the link below, on my community tab on YouTube:

https://www.youtube.com/@kieraoona/community

I also have posted a few more videos since my last blog post.  If you'd like to, please check out my videos, as well as like and subscribe if you enjoy my videos.  Every little bit helps the algorithm gods.

Also as an update, I've signed up for courses and am going back to school.   

Below is a photo of one of the classrooms I'm in.

In addition I'm changing a few videos that are older, and removing them as the video and audio quality is absolute crap due to their age.

That being said I still plan on doing videos soon to replace a few of the old ones that may need updating, such as machine maintenance, and terminology for home sewing machines.

As I'm going to school and not working at the moment, if you feel like supporting my channel with a small donation, I have a Ko-Fi account, at the link below:

https://ko-fi.com/kieraoona 

Any support will help me with supplies and materials, (cause school supplies are expensive), caffination in the form of tea, subscriptions for tools (such as background music that I use in my current videos), or upgrades to filming equipment (currently using a Samsung Galaxy A5 as my filming camera, which is at least 5 years old)

Thank you all for those of you who are watching my videos so far, or subscribed so far, and I look forward to making more content to help you all on your creative and crafting journeys!

 

Recap of 2022 and viking brooches

 

I know...I know, It's been a long time since I have updated this blog.  I've been busy with work, life and general YouTube things that will be my main platform. 

I should update here more when I can, for those of you who are looking for more history things, DIY things, and craft shenanigans in general.

With that said, I will keep this brief as best I can.

I will be going to school in 2023, for garment construction and hat making to start, then using those course credits into possibly getting into a fashion and tailoring full time course.  It's the first time I'll be back at school in decades.  I'm a bit nervous, but who wouldn't be?

If this is your first time here, welcome, fellow Denizen of the Internet!

My focuses are going to be on slow fashion, upcycling where possible, vintage reconstruction for 1940's and 1950s, with a smattering of other eras from viking to victorian/edwardian.

 I have books on Victorian tailoring, the Halsam system, and I'm working on ideas slowly. 

I have been involved lately with the CosTube community, and have been working on multiple projects including spinning, vintage fashions, pattern making, and some costume elements.

I strongly advise to visit my YouTube page for more details and potential inspiration.

One of the "series" projects I've been working on for this year is the Tortoise Brooch challenge for those interested in Viking era, to make their own.  You can see my journey below:

 

The introduction to the challenge:

 Next, failing at attaching things:

And the final assembly and success:

 

If you like what you see, or if you;re interested in seeing more, please visit my YouTube page, like, subscribe, comment on what you liked or what you'd like to see next, as it all helps to bump the algorithm, and gives me a bit of a serotonin boost, and knowing what you all want for content.

Provided I have time, I look forward to joining CoSy 2023 (that's the CosTube Symposium).

See you all out there later for our next adventure...which may involve Butterick's 1950's "Walkaway Dress".  Stay tuned!