(Cross-Posted from my Tumblr account)
Hello people of the internet! I'm going to share a bit of insight with what I've been learning at school this semester
These are illustrations and drawings I have drawn up, no AI was used. The colored drawing (Left) was done using alcohol markers, Gelly Roller pens, and pencil crayons. The other was done using a photo and illustration program
The one on the left shows the layers, the texture, color, if there's sparkle or gold metallic something to it, and the other (Right) is the "technical drawing" to provide the manufacturing company. The "tech pack" or "technical package will add information with details on where the stitching will be, the design elements, and then coupled with a "Spec Sheet" with details of what kind of thread, what color matching the fabric has to be, fiber content, assembly, label printing instructions, and close up detail for any embroidery that needs to be done, and info for the pattern makers for fit
As a point in reference in cost, in Canadian dollars, if I use all natural fiber for ONLY the bolero-cape part, after doing the math, the approximate retail price of just that one piece, is close to $1500 if I was to sell a single copy of this garment....only one on the market
So, you have to wonder... how are clothes designed and sold so cheap, coming from places like China, or sold on Amazon, Temu, Shien, etc In my tech pack, I gave the "labour" costs to make this, at 17$/hour. That is above minimum wage currently in Ontario (Canada)
All the fabric is natural fiber (wool, and cotton sateen). The only thing that's synthetic, is the embroidery, and maybe the interfacing for the cuffs. And as some of you may know, natural fiber gets expensive. Especially wool, which you have to go hunting fabrics for, which can run up to 40-50$ per meter (about 48$/yard for the Americans for conversion)
So, lets say this design gets stolen (which, because its the internet which is most likely to happen), they'll make it out of cheap synthetic fiber (probably polyester), glue or print everything on without top stitching (more chemicals), no embroidery so that'll be printed on (even more paint print chemicals), and likely give their workers maybe 1$/hr to make it, at 5 hours tops (forced labour, slave labour, child labour, or underpaying sewists) to make from start to finish. It will also likely be poorly fitted because of the use of AI that's going to pump out the design (environmental impact from data centers), it won't be fitted on a real human (more AI environmental impact) for photos before sending it off to be produced and posted online, turning this expensive design into a cheap knock-off that will likely be sold by the hundreds of thousands for cheap...maybe about 40$ max, for Halloween.
This will also be the sort of thing people only wear once, throw it out, and it winds up back on the shores of the country that made it (most likely somewhere like Bangladesh, which is home to the lowest paid garment workers in the world, last I heard on social media), causing more pollution, choking off wildlife, and causing locals of wherever they get dumped, to deal with the garbage in their own backyard. What I want to happen with my designs, and what will happen are likely two different things. But I just wanted to bring this information to light.
You may ask yourself "why are you taking this class then?". Well, I want to design clothes for myself, that will be closer to timeless or classic pieces, that are made of natural fiber, that will last as long as possible, with a better chance of biodegradability, wearability (clothes I will want to reach for frequently), mixing and matching, as well as durability during the lifetime of the garment.
I'm also getting older, my body is changing, and menopause is a rough thing to deal with, especially when a hot flash hits, and you need that breathability of natural fiber garments. Especially when it's close to the body to absorb and wick away sweat.
I very much doubt I'll go into production for any of my designs, as I have no overhead (broke college student stereotype), but I want to keep my environmental impact small where I can, that I know I can manage.
Just a little peek behind the curtain of fashion design And now, just a little hand woven project that I'm doing a video for, as a bit of a palate cleanser.
